Yeosu: My Top Travel Destination in Korea

‘Yeosu’ literally means ‘beautiful [麗] water [水]’ in Chinese characters. Korean place names rarely include subjective modifiers. Most reflect the physical geography objectively, such as “Pyeongchang” meaning “flat field” or “Gangneung” meaning “hills by a river.” That’s why the “beauty” in Yeosu is especially notable—the landscape is truly stunning, to the point where the word doesn’t feel like an exaggeration.

Yeosu is the only city on the Korean Peninsula’s mainland that is surrounded by the sea on all four sides—east, west, south, and north. It boasts breathtaking coastal views with many islands, large and small (365 in total: 48 inhabited, 317 uninhabited), which makes its name fitting. It’s even nicknamed the “Naples of Korea.”

Located at the southernmost tip of the Korean Peninsula, Yeosu is about 350 to 400 km from Seoul. Traveling by KTX(Korea’s high-speed rail) from Seoul takes about five hours, and driving a rental car takes roughly the same time. (South Korea is a relatively small country, ranking outside the top 100 in terms of land area, so it’s not difficult to travel around by car. With advanced IT infrastructure, you can easily rent a car via apps without visiting a rental office. In fact, you can do almost anything in Korea using apps—I’ll introduce some of these in another post.)

https://maps.app.goo.gl/T89ZjJZ9hbDQKqVi8

(Yeosu's Location on Google Maps)

You can also fly to Yeosu. Domestic flights use Gimpo Airport rather than Incheon International Airport. Gimpo is about 1 hour away from Incheon by airport rail or 30 minutes by car. A flight from Gimpo to Yeosu Airport takes approximately one hour.

Must-Visit Places in Yeosu

1. Hyangiram Hermitage

Among all the scenic spots I’ve visited in Korea, Hyangiram tops the list. It’s a small temple perched on the cliffs of Geumosan Mountain on Dolsan Island. Located about 100 meters above sea level, it offers an unobstructed view of the sunrise over the sea horizon.

The name ‘Hyangiram’ means “hermitage facing the sun.” The temple also offers templestay programs for both locals and foreigners—an opportunity to reflect, rest, and experience Korean Buddhist culture. Though located on Dolsan Island, one of Yeosu’s islands, it is accessible by car thanks to a bridge connecting it to the mainland.

2. Odongdo Island

The signature island destination of Yeosu. A 768-meter-long breakwater connects Yeosu’s downtown to the island and has been selected as one of “Korea’s 100 Most Beautiful Roads.”

The entire island is surrounded by around 3,000 camellia trees, which bloom into a sea of red from late winter to early spring. This is why it’s also called “Camellia Island.”

With its dense evergreen forest, sea cliffs, music fountains, and the Camellia Train(a small tourist monorail), it offers plenty to explore.

3. Geumodo Island

A 30-minute ferry ride from Yeosu Port, Geumodo features a stunning 18.5 km coastal trail carved into the cliffs. It’s considered the most beautiful coastal trail among all Korean island trails. The trail is called ‘Bireong-gil’—a name derived from a regional dialect word for “cliff.”

Completing the full trail takes about 8–9 hours. It’s divided into five sections and a full-course route. Each section includes paths leading directly to nearby villages, making it easy to exit early if you're pressed for time or low on energy.

Must-try foods in Yeosu

1. Soy Sauce Marinated Crab (Ganjang Gejang)

A dish made by marinating raw fresh crabs in soy sauce. While the word “gejang” already implies soy sauce marination, the term “ganjang gejang” is used to distinguish it from its spicy counterpart, made with chili powder and seasonings.

Koreans often refer to gejang as a “rice thief” because it makes you eat much more rice than usual—it's that appetizing. Yeosu is one of the best places to enjoy this beloved Korean dish.

The Bongsan-dong Gejang Alley in Yeosu is famous for its cluster of gejang restaurants. In the morning, you can even catch glimpses of the crab-preparing process at various eateries.

2. Dolsan Gat Kimchi (Mustard Leaf Kimchi)

Kimchi made from mustard leaves[gat] grown on Dolsan Island—home to Hyangiram. The mustard plant was introduced during the Japanese occupation and adapted to the local environment, evolving into today’s unique Dolsan variety.

Among many types of kimchi, gat kimchi stands out for its distinctive aroma and pungent flavor. About 70% of Dolsan-grown mustard leaves are used to make this kimchi, which was once offered as tribute to the royal court. It remains one of Yeosu’s most iconic traditional foods.

3. Raw Tongue Sole (Seodae Hoe)

This dish tops the list in Yeosu’s famous “Top 10 Tastes” (Yeosu 10 Mi, 味: ‘mi’ meaning flavor). It features raw tongue sole fish (seodae) sliced sashimi-style and mixed with spicy sauce and vegetables.

Traditionally served to honored guests in Yeosu, there’s even a local saying: “Even the mudflats where seodae lie taste good,” reflecting just how prized this fish is in the region.

All three of these dishes are part of the “Yeosu 10 Mi.” Other renowned local specialties include Yeosu-style full-course meals (hansik), grilled sea eel, oysters (grilled or steamed), braised hairtail, shabu-shabu with baby clams, and raw or grilled gizzard shad.